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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.